The Lace Trench Coat Part 2: Fitting the Toile

I started down this trench coat adventure knowing that I was going to be challenged. It wasn’t until I was trying to layout and identify the pattern pieces until I realized just how extra this project was going to be. It took about 10 minutes to just work through the pattern pieces. I was planning to combine Marfy 3511 and Marfy 3201. Unlike most modern designer garments, all characteristic feature of the trench coat were born out of practicality and have a purpose. I wanted to include as many classic features as I could. I will be using the body, pockets, shoulder shield, and cuff tab from 3201. The shoulder tabs and belt will come from 3511. I am undecided on which collar to use, so I will decide once toiled. I am also considering drafting a back vent to make it closer to the Burberry silhouette.

Marfy patterns do not include seam allowances, so when creating my toile, I traced each one and cut extra allowance around each piece. When putting the pieces together, all I could think was, “Holy pattern making, Batman! This pattern goes together perfectly!” It was so perfectly balanced and the seams matched perfectly. I had a couple of slight changes to make for fit. There was the regular old armhole change I had to make and the body was just a little wide through the back panels. If I was making it in a wool, I would have left that much ease. However, the cotton twill, even with the flannel underlining, might be a little too frumpy. This will also be more of a spring coat, so the sweaters won’t ever be too bulky either. And finally, I decided due to the visual busyness of lace, I would do a slightly shorter length. I took off 5.5″ in length. I am a petite woman and just wanted to be sure that I wasn’t going to drown in the visual impact of this coat.

The toile was a little big in the back and the armhole

During the toile fitting, I decided to go with the collar from Marfy 3201. The collar from Marfy 3511 did not have a collar stand and was a little bigger. It just didn’t have the classic feel I was looking for in this piece. Once I trimmed up the silhouette, the buttons were too far spaced. I added about four extras. Basically, I halved the distance between each button. Now on to the Layout.

A little nip and tuck and we are looking much better.

Happy Sewing,

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