I finally received all my fabrics for this project today and I am so excited I could burst. After a quick prewashing and drying, I began my next steps. This is where all the planning starts to take shape. Cutting each piece was time consuming for sure. There ended up being 108 separate pieces with the lining and the underlining included.
When first planning this coat, I referenced With My Hands Dream trench coat progress. In it, she mentioned Off – Graining. I was unable to do it with this particular project because this coat is being made out of scrapes of lace, so I had less leeway with layout. I was also concerned that the lace pattern would draw too much attention to the off grain, even if it is only 2 cm.
I thread traced the underlining only, just to save myself a little time (and thread). I laid the thread traced underlining on top of the twill and the lace to cut each additional layer and hand basted the three layers together. This will help them all act as one piece. It has a drastically different impact on the finished garment, than if the underlining was attached like a lining.
Okay, so this is where things get a little crazy. The internals of a garment is can take your project from, “so cute” to “wow”. And I am looking for a maximum impact and long term wear ability of “wow”. So, I decided to go with a more traditional tailoring route, slightly mashed with a modern tailoring. The placement of all the different interfacing I want to use is complicated enough that I had to make the below diagram to help me keep it straight. This doesn’t include things like the bound button pieces and I missed adding the shoulder overlay and the shoulder tabs. All the horse hair is edged with twill tape.
The horse hair is cut without seam allowance. So, as you can see in the diagram it is set just inside the pattern piece. I catch stitched it in place by hand. You want to do a catch stitch because it allows for movement as the jacket is worn. You cannot see in the diagram, but there is a second piece of horse hair, cut on the bias, in the shoulder area and than pad stitch, pad stitch, pad stitch. All the edges are finished with twill tape. The roll line on the collar also has a line of twill tape along it. All this interfacing helps to stabilize the shoulder, so that it does not start to sag over time.
Construction begins shortly.