After I got all 108 pieces (yes 108!) cut out, underlined and interfaced, things began looking more like a coat. Marfy patterns do not have any instructions, or seam allowances and limited markings. They are a “challenging sew”. They are the most magnificent patterns I have ever used, but they are not a lunch time project.
We must begin with the constructing the gorgeous pocket flaps. These, along with the pockets are inserted into the princess seams. So, pocket flaps and pocket construction should be done even before interfacing the front panels.
The pocket flaps are basted along the princess seam. The pocket bags are sewn to the side panel and the center front panel. Under stitch the pocket bag on the pocket bag side of the seam. After this step, you can connect the pocket bags right sides together.
The side panel and center front panels are sewn together, stopping at the pocket bag stitch line and continuing again at the bottom of the pocket bag. The back panels are also sewn together at this time. We now attach the horsehair canvas to the front and the back as I laid out here. And we pad stitch, pad stitch, pad stitch. For women out there, you will want to have this interfacing go up and over your breast tissue, hence the unusual curve below.
Here you can see the front lapels before they are closed up. All the belting hardware for the jacket came from Pacific Trimming. It is fantastic! They have a great weight and professional finish.
For a great hem finish, I use a canvas interfacing, known in the States as Wigan bias interfacing. It is whip stitched into place. Given all the handwork already in this garment, I decided to had finish the hems instead of “bagging the lining”
All that is left are buttons and button holes!