The Lace Trench Coat Part 4: Construction and Details

After I got all 108 pieces (yes 108!) cut out, underlined and interfaced, things began looking more like a coat. Marfy patterns do not have any instructions, or seam allowances and limited markings. They are a “challenging sew”. They are the most magnificent patterns I have ever used, but they are not a lunch time project.

We must begin with the constructing the gorgeous pocket flaps. These, along with the pockets are inserted into the princess seams. So, pocket flaps and pocket construction should be done even before interfacing the front panels.

The pocket flaps are basted along the princess seam. The pocket bags are sewn to the side panel and the center front panel. Under stitch the pocket bag on the pocket bag side of the seam. After this step, you can connect the pocket bags right sides together. 

The side panel and center front panels are sewn together, stopping at the pocket bag stitch line and continuing again at the bottom of the pocket bag. The back panels are also sewn together at this time. We now attach the horsehair canvas to the front and the back as I laid out here. And we pad stitch, pad stitch, pad stitch. For women out there, you will want to have this interfacing go up and over your breast tissue, hence the unusual curve below.

Here you can see the front lapels before they are closed up. All the belting hardware for the jacket came from Pacific Trimming. It is fantastic! They have a great weight and professional finish.

For a great hem finish, I use a canvas interfacing, known in the States as Wigan bias interfacing. It is whip stitched into place. Given all the handwork already in this garment, I decided to had finish the hems instead of “bagging the lining”

All that is left are buttons and button holes!

Happy Sewing!

The Lace Trench Coat Part 1: Planning

Ahhh, October. The leaves have changed, the air is crisper, the nights are cozier and we in the sewing community focus on slow or sustainable sewing. It took me a few days to decide how to celebrate this slow sewing season, but as I was reaching for my wool overcoat this morning, it hit me. I have been wanting to make a Burberry inspired trench for a few years now, but full disclosure, I have been a little intimidated to begin. I wanted to do it correctly and build a beautiful coat that lasts. I also know how much time a project like this takes. For me, this is not an afternoon and done project. This Slow Fashion October project will most likely also move into Slow Fashion November.

The Pattern

I have always loved the clean, classic and traditional Burberry Tench, but I also appreciate how the brand isn’t afraid to remix the classic into something new and modern. I absolutely fell head over heels for the lace versions that the brand launched a few years back. It has been on my sewing dream team for a while, but I had a very specific vision for this garment. The vision is so specific that even with all the trench coat patterns out there, I could not find one that was a classic Knightbridge silhouette. I decided to added an extra challenge to this project and choose two Marfy patterns to combine. I will be using Marfy 3511 with Marfy 3201. Even with these two patterns, I will still need to make a couple of modifications. Neither pattern has a back storm flap and I would like a slim sleeve like the Burberry version, so I am thinking I may need to do a three piece sleeve. I will know for sure once I make up the toile.

Mary 3201
Marfy 3511

The Fabric

In my stash, there is a cobalt blue lace, originally meant for bridesmaids dress (totally different story) that I wanted to use. The issue became what to use for the backing. I finally settled on this Kaufman Ventana Twill. It is not waterproof, but I heard that a local dry cleaner may be able to apply a waterproof coating to the fabric. It is certainly something I will consider. I am also planning to underline the coat with a cotton flannel for a little extra warmth. I do have a slight concern that this is going to make the whole thing too bulky, but we shall see. Now that the shell and underling fabrics are all sorted, I needed to focus on the internal structures. I will need, hair canvas, fusible interfacing, pellon Sew-in canvas and muslin. All of these extra inner pieces are used in traditional tailoring. Craftsy teacher, Alison Smith, is the brilliant teacher holding my hand through this process. For the trimmings, I am needing to source buttons, clear under buttons, buckles, and  D-Rings.

This is my Sewing Planner page for this garment:

My next step will be making my toile. Stay Tuned.

xoxo Kathryn